Adventures of a vegetarian in a land of meat-eaters

When you live in a foreign country, sometimes the most basic tasks prove challenging. Simple, daily things that you may do without a second thought in your own country might require a bit more patience, planning and effort when you are far from home.

Finding suitable things to eat — whether from the local street stalls, restaurant menus or markets — was one such challenge. And for me, being a vegetarian in a meat-loving country made the task all the more trying, but in the end, that much more rewarding.

It didn't take me long to realize that learning the Thai names for vegetarian-friendly dishes was a necessity.

And for the times when I would inevitably find myself in a place where no vegetarian options were available, I learned how to ask (in Thai) for my food to be prepared with no beef, no shrimp, no chicken and no pork ("mai sai neua, mai sai goong, mai sai gai, mai sai moo").

This long-winded request was almost always met by blank stares, laughter and surprise from the vendor preparing my meal. Much like my own mother and father, most Thai people I encountered found it hard to believe that a meal without meat was a meal at all!

I asked some Thai friends how I might properly order vegetarian food, and they advised me to request my meal "gin jay."

But after a bit of research, I found that although "gin jay" does indeed convey the message "no meat," it is a phrase used by Buddhists following a strict diet of no meat as well as no garlic, no onions, and a number of other flavors and spices I actually wanted included in my meals.

Determined to find a better way to communicate, two (American and British vegetarian) friends and I continued asking our bilingual friends how to order vegetarian dishes.

Eventually, we came across an experienced teacher and longtime resident of Southeast Asia who advised us that the phrase "mongsowrirot" would do the trick.

And indeed it did, though not instantly. It took some practice to master the pronunciation and it took some nerve to try it out on the locals.

Vegetarianism in Thailand is still quite uncommon. Consequently, "mongsowrirot" is not a phrase frequently used or heard in daily conversation. As a result, I found that even perfect pronunciation on my part would not guarantee a flawless exchange with local vendors.

(In my experience and much to my surprise, even practicing Buddhists in Thailand eat meat. Only on special Buddhist holidays did I actually hear Thai people utter the phrase — "mongsowrirot" — that quickly became a vital part of my survival vocabulary.)

In spite of my best efforts, awkward exchanges ensued. But, thankfully, in spite of my embarrassment, I didn't starve. In fact, I discovered plenty of tasty things to eat and shared plenty of laughs along the way. And now I would like to share some of my favorites with you.

Whether meat is a must or the vegetarian way is your way, whether wandering the streets of a Thai town or seated comfortably in a Thai restaurant right here in America, I think you will find that Thai cuisine offers the best balance of sweet and spicy, sour and savory.

Here are a few Thai dishes definitely worth a taste:

■ Somtam: A shredded green papaya salad perfectly flavored with chili peppers, garlic and lime, tossed with fresh green beans, cherry tomatoes and crunchy toasted peanuts.

If you can't handle the heat, order it "mai phet" (not spicy). If you are brave enough and prefer to spice it up, order it "phet" (spicy) or "phet phet" (really spicy), as I did nearly every day! Be sure to order a side of "khao niao" (sticky rice) to complement the dish and extinguish the fire.

■ Gang kiao wan: This dish, made spicy by the green curry paste, sweet by the coconut milk and refreshing by the basil and kaffir lime leaves, is great for meat-eaters and vegetarians alike, as beef, chicken, shrimp, and tofu can be added or subtracted depending on your preferences.

■ Pad thai: Another famous blend of sweet and spicy, this fried-noodle dish is an affordable and fast favorite. Lime, egg, and rice noodles are tossed into a wok and fried up with fish sauce, garlic, chili peppers, sugar, tamarind and tofu.

Optional and recommended toppings include peanuts, bean sprouts, chives, shrimp and my favorites, an added pinch of sugar and some extra ground chili peppers.

■ Pad bpreaw wan: With a name that literally means "fried sweet and sour" you might guess that this dish performs yet another balancing act, pairing the sweetness of pineapple and coconut with the bitterness of tamarind, while a bit of red curry paste gives the sauce just the right bite.

Steamed or stir-fried veggies and tofu are tossed in the sauce to satisfy the vegetarians, while meat-lovers can opt for chicken or shrimp.

■ Khao pad: You can never go wrong with this dish of fried rice, any way you like it.

The options are endless: khao pad pak (fried rice with vegetables) for the vegans, khao pad kai (fried rice with eggs) for the vegetarians, khao pad goong (fried rice with shrimp) for those who enjoy seafood, khao pad gai (fried rice with chicken) for the meat eaters, and khao pad sapporot (fried rice with pineapple) for everyone.

Dip it in some sweet and spicy chili sauce, top it off with "nam bpla prik" (diced fresh chilies in fish sauce and lime juice), or enjoy it as is, hot from the street vendor's wok.

Whatever dish you choose, should you have the opportunity, be sure to be brave, spice it up, and share it with friends.

In a country where "Gin khao?" (Have you eaten yet?) is just as common a greeting as "Sabaii dee mai?" (How are you?), being part of the culture means getting to know the food and sharing it with others.

... And in your bravery, if your mouth does catch fire, order a sweet Thai iced coffee or a fresh fruit smoothie to put out the flames.

To experiencing other cultures through our taste buds,

Ashley