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The runway and beyond

A north country guy's view of Fashion Week
By KYLE HAYES
TIMES NEWS CLERK
SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2009
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Times News Clerk Kyle Hayes interned for fashion magazine W and wrote for fashion news blog Fashionista.com in New York City before joining the Times staff in March. He returned to New York for Mercedes-Benz Spring 2010 Fashion Week to get an insider's view of one of the fashion world's biggest events of the year.

"Project Runway" and "America's Next Top Model" may make New York City Fashion Week seem like a whirlwind of gorgeous models and glamorous clothes, but a week spent dodging cabs on the way to the spring 2010 fashion shows provides a dose of reality.

Now that I've returned to life in Northern New York after seven days of running in too-new shoes across the cobblestone walkways in Bryant Park and stumbling down stairs in front of the fashion elite, I can safely say my spur-of-the-moment trip to Fashion Week was anything but a vacation.

Being a beginner on the Fashion Week circuit, I had a lot to learn. Everything seemed a bit foreign, from navigating the giant, two-story Bryant Park "tents" to knowing how to hide my face from the cameras snapping photos of celebrities sitting in front of me.

Throughout the week, from Sept. 10 to Sept. 17, I attended nine fashion shows and four presentations, a pittance compared to most magazine editors and department store buyers who take in approximately 11 shows a day for seven days straight. For a newcomer, though, I was off to a good start.

My journey began Sept. 10 with Fashion Week's kickoff event, Fashion's Night Out, a global happening that reached Tokyo and Paris but was created in New York by Vogue editors, retailers and the fashion press. The event, which lasted from 6 to 11 p.m. that Thursday, consisted of hundreds of people running to designated stores to meet celebrities, dance with models and, of course, shop.

Connie Wang, associate blog editor for fashion and shopping Web site Refinery29.com, said Fashion's Night Out was all about bringing glamour back to shopping and making it an event rather than a chore.

"I don't think that the act of shopping holds that sacred spot for people anymore; it's not an event as much as a necessity," she said. "Instead of glamorizing the production of fashion with reality shows and pop culture's focus on magazines, it makes more economic sense to glamorize the consumption of fashion."

Even with my failed attempts to rub shoulders with Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen on Fifth Avenue or snap a picture of songstress Rihanna in SoHo, there was plenty of excitement and a celebration of conspicuous consumption, despite Wall Street's woes.

Following Fashion's Night Out, the shows kicked into high gear. I took in my first set of shows at the Bryant Park tents for BCBG Max Azria, Yigal Azrouel, Lela Rose and Thuy. Other runway shows and presentations were held at smaller, more eclectic venues. British label Preen held its show in an industrial-like warehouse; the Devi Kroell presentation was housed in a contemporary ballet studio. Both venues allowed for closer, more intimate viewing of spring's wares.

Each morning I bolted out the door toward the subway with notebook and pen in hand for jotting down thoughts throughout shows, but the sumptuous leather jackets at Israeli-born Azrouel's show and the Bruno Frisoni shoes at Monique Lhuillier proved to be too much of a distraction. Aside from pen and paper, I found that other necessities were a stash of Band-Aids for avoiding blisters from my patent leather shoes, and an emergency muffin and bottle of water — even a quick stop at Starbucks between shows might make me moments late, locked out of the next presentation.

For editors, surviving the grueling week started from the ground up.

Miss Wang said a pedicure is essential, since photographers are endlessly snapping flocks of well-dressed people, and their shoes, on the street.

"Comfortable shoes are a necessity," said Britt E. Aboutaleb, editor of fashion blog Fashionista.com. "You think your shoes are comfortable, but then you run around for 18 hours and realize, maybe not so much."

"I also never left the office without a Metrocard and my BlackBerry," Miss Wang said. "You need a tweeting machine."

As for Twitter, the microblogging site became the star of Fashion Week news coverage. I found myself tweeting back and forth with friends across the runway and constantly refreshing my feed anywhere from the subway to dinner and right before bed. With editors like Elle's Joe Zee (@mrjoezee) and V Magazine's Derek Blasberg (@DizzyBlazeberg) tweeting from the front row, it'd be a shame to miss a beat.

After several years of declining sales numbers, sky-high production costs and fashion brands filing for bankruptcy, designers brought their "A" game back for the spring 2010 season.

Rachel Zoe, stylist to the stars and star of Bravo's "The Rachel Zoe Project," told industry newspaper Women's Wear Daily, "New York is game-on right now. The energy is back, the designers are happy and it's been an amazing week."

If the collections were any indication, designers are looking to renew confidence and inject fun into women's their wardrobes for spring.

"The energy itself (of fashion week) was amazing," Miss Aboutaleb said. "Last season all anyone talked about was the recession. This time around, the economic upswing was the topic of choice and there were, fittingly, a barrage of flirty party dresses on the runway."

Designers such as Karen Walker, whose collection was filled with polka dots, ruffles and ready-for-the-beach bucket hats, and 27-year-old Chris Benz brought a new frame of mind to spring 2010, where a night on the town with friends — perhaps in one of Mr. Benz's sequined and feather cocktail numbers — is just as important as a Monday morning meeting.

Miss Wang believes sweat pants, surprisingly, will be a big trend for spring, yet only in polished form with slimmer silhouettes.

"I think the refined sweat pant is going to be huge," she said. "Whether in a soft gray or black, if you pair them with great shoes and blazer, they can look crazy chic."

Despite the fashion industry's notorious reputation for cold-heartedness, there were no catfights over seating arrangements, and every editor I chatted up while waiting for shows to begin seemed genuinely happy to be a part of the week — even if they were looking forward to it being over.

"The best thing about New York Fashion Week is being around people who love fashion as much as you do," Miss Wang said. "The worst is the sleep deprivation."

 

 

 

 

 

 

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TRENDS TO LOOK FOR IN SPRING FASION
Although New York City Fashion Week is over, “fashion month” has continued in London, Milan and Paris throughout September. However, if New York is any indication of what will be the next big trends for spring, women will have a lot to look forward to after five months of snow and slush.

Polka dots: Graphic polka dots popped up in collections all over the city. From Karen Walker to Marc by Marc Jacobs, the retro print made its way across a dozen runways this season. Look for dots on playful T-shirts and pleated skirts for spring.

Sequins: A sequined jacket or party dress is an essential for day or evening come April. Since sequins were a necessity for fall, keep that shiny jacket or shift dress in the front of your closet to dress up just about any basic outfit.

’80s revival: Big shoulders, vintage sports uniforms and, yes, scrunchies dominated the Alexander Wang runway, and several designers featured clothing with slashes and cut-outs in all the right places. Decide where you’re comfortable showing some skin; whether it’s a well-placed cut-out on the shoulder of a slouchy tank top or just a slashed cardigan layered over a basic T, the ’80s are back. Charlotte Ronson, who recently launched a line with JC Penney, even sent out acid-washed jeans and headbands at her show, quite obviously channeling Flashdance.

Safari: Tribal pants and wooden jewelry were the focus of Catherine Malandrino’s presentation, and Chris Benz even fashioned a safari-ready silk dress at his. Master of all things classic, Oscar de la Renta incorporated luxury safari jackets in beige into his show. Brave the wild spring weather with a classic beige or mustard-colored shortened trench with lots of pockets to stash things.
SHOW COMMENTS
PHOTOS
ASSOCIATED PRESS
Models run across Sixth Avenue during a photo session for Fashion's Night Out, a global initiative to promote sales, restore confidence and celebrate fashion.
ASSOCIATED PRESS
People mill about outside the tents in Bryant Park at the end of a rainy day two of Fashion Week. The 'tents' - enormous temporary structures - can hold hundreds of people.
ASSOCIATED PRESS
Spring 2010 fashion collection from Marc by Marc Jacobs is modeled during fashion week in New York, Tuesday Sept. 15, 2009. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
ASSOCIATED PRESS
The spring 2010 collection of Oscar de la Renta is presented during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, in New York, Wednesday, Sept. 16, 2009. (AP Photo/Richard Drew)
ASSOCIATED PRESS
What to look for this spring, from top: polka dots (Marc by Marc Jacobs), safari-inspired looks (Oscar de la Renta) and sequins (Oscar de la Renta ).
ASSOCIATED PRESS
The '80s make an updated comeback in the line of designer Gwen Stefani, center, standing with her models at the conclusion of her L.A.M.B. presentation on Sept. 10.
ASSOCIATED PRESS
It's not only the models' shoes that photographers are looking at during Fashion Week. Shooters keep an eye out for noteworthy looks off the runway as well. Here, the spring collection of Tory Burch.
ASSOCIATED PRESS
A rapt audience watches the Proenza Schouler show.
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