FOOD FOR THOUGHT / WALTER SIEBEL

In Tupper Lake, a whole lot of clucking going on

SUNDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2009
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TUPPER LAKE — There's a new restaurant in Tupper Lake called PJ Cluckers Chicken and Rib House.

The name alone makes you want to find out what it's all about, doesn't it?

We stopped by the day after Thanksgiving, a day most restaurants would be thankful to get people though their doors.

It didn't seem to be a problem at Cluckers. We were the first to be seated, around 6 o'clock. By 7, most every table was occupied. Locals, seniors, hunters and tourists (that would be us).

The menu begins with, of course, chicken — baked, barbecued or fried. Barbecued baby back ribs are next, followed by tacos or nachos with seasoned chicken or ground beef, Glazier dogs and Michigans, daily fish fry, burgers and wings.

We began with the nacho chip platter with seasoned ground beef ($7.95).

This was an oval-sized plate filled with crispy chips topped with gooey Monterey Jack cheese, fresh chopped lettuce and tomatoes, sliced black olives, and seasoned beef.

Absolutely yummy, plentiful and fresh fresh!

With a name like Cluckers, chicken was a must.

Different-sized chicken dinners are available, from a one-piece to a 12-piece dinner.

We got the three-piece baked chicken dinner ($8.99) — breast, leg and thigh — that comes with two sides. We chose potato salad and soup of the day.

The chicken was on the dry side, especially the breast, and the skin, while nicely seasoned, had no crispness to it. It reminded us of leftover chicken when you try to warm it up the next day.

Homemade soup was tomato macaroni beef, lots of "stuff" in a thick, tasty tomato broth.

Potato salad was a winner, with perfectly cooked and chunked potatoes, chopped eggs, celery and a little diced tomato, all held together with a perfect mix of mayonnaise and mustard.

Ribs were next in our pecking order (get it?).

A half rack ($10.99) of the meatiest baby back ribs we've ever had arrived covered with a dark, thick, sweet barbecue sauce. They were fall-off-the-bone tender.

We quizzed our waitress about the preparation, because we couldn't find any evidence of a smoke ring on the meat. A smoke ring would have confirmed that the meat was, in fact, smoked.

She spilled the beans (get it?). And we didn't even have to arm wrestle her to the floor. The ribs are parboiled, then slow-cooked in the oven for hours, which would account for the fork-tender meat.

Baked beans were ordinary — no smoke flavor, no onions added.

Cole slaw was made there — thick-cut, crunchy and sweet.

Cluckers fish fry ($14.95) is available daily, a large portion of hand-breaded haddock served with cole slaw, tartar sauce and fries or mashed potatoes.

The fish was gently deep-fried and totally devoid of grease, with a nice crunchy coating that sealed in the moisture and flavor of the fish.

We went with mashed potatoes because our accommodating waitress told us they were made on the premises. They were good, covered with nondescript turkey-like gravy.

The dish also came with a salad, plain but good with crisp iceberg lettuce and wedges of tomato, thinly sliced onion and croutons.

The char-grilled Clucker burger platter ($7.95) — "8-ounce grilled burger mixed with blue cheese and a hint of Worcestershire" — didn't measure up to the menu description.

Blue cheese was the reason we ordered it. What there was of it seemed to be mixed into the mayo on the top half of the large Kaiser roll. And it was ordered medium and came out totally well done.

Fresh lettuce, tomato and onion helped perk it up a little. French fries from scratch were appreciated.

Dessert time. We asked our waitress if they were homemade. She said, "Honestly, they usually are, but because of the busy holiday, we had to bring some in from Mr. Rick's Bakery in Watertown."

We like Mr. Rick's products, so we tried his blueberry pie and pumpkin pie, priced at $3.95 each.

The crusts were both good, considering they'd been made several days prior. The blueberry filling was thick and sweet. The pumpkin pie filling had all the right spices.

They were delivered right from the fridge, served cold. A quick zap in the microwave might have enhanced them.

Our dinner for four, with one appetizer, four entrées, three desserts and a round of nonalcoholic beverages, cost $74 before tip. Cluckers does not have a liquor license.

While we didn't take advantage, there was a specials board with a number of enticing offerings like baked salmon, chicken Parmesan and homemade meatloaf.

Our server spoke highly of the chef, noting that she's worked in several area restaurants and that the food at Cluckers is the best she's been associated with.

Cluckers serves the same menu for both lunch and dinner beginning at 11 a.m. seven days a week, plus daily lunch and dinner specials.

It's easy to find, on Route 3 in the center of town next to Rite Aid.

TIDBITS

■ Have you tried Mr. Rick's doughnuts yet? They're available at various locations around the north country, most recently at Chip's Place in Hannawa Falls and Ames grocery store in Colton. Betcha can't eat just one ...

■ Have you heard that Big Tupper Ski Area is reopening this season? We're told it'll be open Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays beginning Dec. 26, weather permitting. A good reason to stop at Cluckers if you're headed to the slopes.

You can contact restaurant reviewer Walter Siebel via e-mail: wsiebel@wdt.net.

PJ Cluckers Chicken and Rib House

6 Demars Blvd.

Tupper Lake, NY

1 (518) 359-5253

Their slogan sums it up: "Home style cooking, served with a smile, in a relaxed, casual atmosphere"

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. seven days a week

Big, meaty fall-off-the-bone ribs slathered with barbecue sauce are a must.

Try the fresh nacho chip platter with seasoned beef or chicken.

Fish fry is available every day of the week, a healthy portion of nicely breaded and deep-fried haddock.

RATING: 3 forks

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