Building on the past: Doxtater's grocery reborn as brick-oven bakery, farm market

EVANS MILLS — In the 1960s, it was run by his grandparents; in the '90s, by his aunt and uncle. But the grocery store closed and sat vacant for a few years. Now, Brian M. Doxtater, Carthage, has stepped up to the plate and given the family-owned business a new concept and a brick oven.

Doxtater's Bakery, four miles north of Longway's Truck Stop on Route 37 in Evans Mills, is "an indoors farmers market that has a brick-oven bakery." The bakery will be open year-round; the farmers market will operate in fall, winter and spring.

Mr. Doxtater, a former food service director for Sackets Harbor Central School, said he has always had a fascination with brick-oven cooking. After his sister was diagnosed with cancer, he decided to pursue his dream.

"I just realized that I didn't want to die without having done what I really wanted to do," he said.

In March he began construction of the oven. Three months later the oven had its first wood fire, and in June Mr. Doxtater began baking bread.

"There's nothing like it in the area," Mr. Doxtater said, referring to both his handmade brick oven and the winter farmers market.

The market, which opened at the end of November, is still in its beginning stages, but Mr. Doxtater said people seem to like the idea.

Doxtater's Bakery is just one of the local food vendors that can be found inside.

In addition to his baked goods and fresh pizzas, the market also sells locally raised meat, organically grown vegetables, fruits and crafts.

Dani F. Baker, co-owner of the organic Cross Island Farms, Wellesley Island, said she hopes more local farms will get involved in the venture.

"It's a great opportunity for the farms and for the public," Ms. Baker said. "A lot of people are interested in supporting the local farms, and this will give them an opportunity to do that."

Ms. Baker has a variety of potatoes for sale at the market along with squash, pumpkins and garlic. She said she hopes to start selling fresh leaks, beets and greens.

Mr. Doxtater said he expects the concept of an indoor farmers market to catch on and once it does, the business will be able to expand.

"People are interested in the idea of buying locally grown foods," Mr. Doxtater said.

Veronica R. LaMothe, Antwerp, sells frozen grass-fed beef and lamb from her Beartown Farm, also in Antwerp. She has sold her goods at summer markets for three years and said if the indoor farmers market takes off, it will be lucrative to all involved.

"The farmers market is just one channel of revenue," Mrs. LaMothe said. "If we can continue the farmers markets throughout the winter it will definitely help the farm's income."

It's all about baby steps, Mr. Doxtater said. But his baby steps are turning into strides. The market already accepts food stamps, credit and debit cards.

Doxtater's Bakery — the name of the entire venture — is open from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays and from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturdays. It can be reached at 489-9956. To see the brick oven in all its stages, and samples of the types of breads available, check out Doxtater's Bakery on Facebook: http://tinyurl.com/ye4t9af.